Billie
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Last week, Procter & Gamble (P&G) announced that it was terminating plans to acquire razor startup Billie following a U.S. Federal Trade Commission lawsuit to stop the deal.
Last year, Edgewell Personal Care ditched its debt-heavy $1.37 billion deal for Harry’s, Inc, formerly valued at $1 billion after the FTC sought to block the acquisition.
In addition to these FTC challenges, it is also now becoming clear that relying on VC-subsidized products and celebrating outrageous valuations can be problematic for D2C brands. With a few wonderful and rare exceptions such as Rothy’s (which raised $42 million but was profitable from the beginning and generated $140 million in revenue within two years of launching), D2C unicorns are addicted to the cycle of venture funding to feed growth in order to maintain a high valuation multiple.
The path to profitability has become a more important part of the startup story versus growth at all costs.
This works for a while; however, when the path to profitability appears murky and exit options either don’t appear or only appear from nontech companies with very conservative multiples, the walls start crumbling.
In a WWD article, Odile Roujol, the former CEO of Lancôme who launched venture fund FAB Ventures, said, “Generally speaking, the era of $1 billion valuations for beauty companies is over. The people that struggle have been the companies that spend so much money in just a few years.” She went on to say, “The big corporations now … are not ready to spend $1.2 billion, $1.5 billion on such a brand like Glossier.”
This change in sentiment from acquirers is further fueled by recent research on the challenges of turning hypergrowth companies profitable. In his Harvard Business School case study “Direct to Consumer Brands,” Professor Sunil Gupta wrote, “Acquiring DTC brands is easy for incumbent conglomerates, but making them profitable is challenging. More than three years after Unilever acquired Dollar Shave Club, it was still unprofitable.”
Unilever executives learned that the average cost of acquiring a new customer online was about the same as in stores. David Taylor, CEO of P&G, said his company was still figuring out how to turn recently acquired direct-to-consumer brands into profitable businesses.
Taylor summarized this dilemma, saying, “There are many, many launches that grow fast … a business model that makes money is a higher challenge.” Since making these realizations, incumbent conglomerates will be more cautious when considering the acquisition of hyped D2C brands that raised lots of venture capital.
What’s cooler than beauty companies that are (or were) valued at $1 billion? Beauty tech SaaS companies that are worth $5.2 billion at IPO. We don’t hear much about the leading global beauty tech companies such as Meitu and Perfect Corp. because their founders are not celebrity influencers, they don’t have massive Instagram followings here in the U.S. and they are not celebrated in our media. Although their companies are based in Asia and they raised money mostly from Chinese investors, their companies are global successes.
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Procter & Gamble will not acquire women’s beauty products startup Billie, as previously planned, following action taken by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission to stop the deal from proceeding. In December, the FTC sued to block P&G’s acquisition of the New York-based startup Billie, a maker of women’s razors and other beauty products, on the grounds that the merger would eliminate competition in the wet shave razor market.
Today, P&G and Billie issued a joint statement, expressing their regret over the FTC’s decision to attempt to block their merger, which led to the deal’s termination:
We were disappointed by the FTC’s decision and maintain there was exciting potential in combining Billie with P&G to better serve more consumers around the world. However, after due consideration, we have mutually agreed that it is in both companies’ best interests not to engage in a prolonged legal challenge, but instead to terminate our agreement and refocus our resources on other business priorities.
Billie had made a name for itself in the women’s razor market by offering to eliminate the so-called “pink tax,” which refers to how women’s products are often marked up at higher price points compared with similar products aimed at men. It later expanded into the broader beauty market with a focus on more natural products that are free of additives and chemicals, including sulfates, parabens, formaldehydes, GMOs, drying alcohols, synthetic dyes, fragrances, cheap foaming agents, unstable silicones and BHT.
The startup was also particularly successful in capturing the interest of a younger, Gen Z to millennial-aged consumer, who responded to its mission as well as its modern, and often even progressive, marketing across social media and the web. In its advertisements, Billie would show women with body hair — a message that went against the grain of traditional societal expectations, where women are often shown in marketing messages — including razor ads — as already hairless and smooth.
Billie’s message was that women should feel free to do what they want about their body hair — but for those who prefer to shave, it would be happy to sell them an affordably priced razor.
What also made Billie interesting was its business model. The company offers to ship replacement blades on a subscription basis to its customers, which helped it grow revenues and customer loyalty.
Ahead of the P&G acquisition, Billie was planning to expand into physical retail stores, which would have made the brand a more direct competitor to P&G products, the FTC had said.
“As its sales grew, Billie was likely to expand into brick-and-mortar stores, posing a serious threat to P&G,” noted Ian Conner, director of the FTC’s Bureau of Competition, in a statement issued last month. “If P&G can snuff out Billie’s rapid competitive growth, consumers will likely face higher prices,” he added.
As a result of the FTC’s actions, the companies chose to put an end to their plans to merge as opposed to pursuing further legal action.
The FTC praised this decision in a release issued today. Reuters also reported on the companies’ decision to terminate.
“Procter & Gamble’s abandonment of the acquisition of Billie is good news for consumers who value low prices, quality, and innovation,” the FTC statement reads. “Billie is a direct-to-consumer company whose advertising targets customers who are tired of paying more for comparable razors. The FTC voted to challenge this merger because it would have eliminated dynamic competition from Billie.”
The FTC lawsuit was the second antitrust suit the agency filed in 2020 after it previously sued to block Edgewell Personal Care’s (maker of Schick razors) $1.37 billion deal to acquire the razor startup Harry’s, Inc., another direct-to-consumer brand. As a result, that deal fell through, too.
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Billie, the Berlin-based fintech startup that offers a B2B invoicing and payments platform, has raised €30 million in Series B funding. Leading the round is Creandum, alongside SpeedInvest, Rocket Internet’s GFC and Picus.
Founded in 2017 by the same team behind SME online lending platform Zencap, which exited to Funding Circle in 2015, Billie wants to bring to B2B invoicing and payments the same level of convenience seen in B2C payments and e-commerce.
Claiming to be Germany’s leading “one-stop shop” for handling all outgoing invoices of B2B sellers, including sending invoices, collecting payments and invoice financing, Billie’s customers range from SMEs, large e-commerce players and transnational marketplaces.
“As B2B transactions are more than twice the volume of B2C transactions, the potential to help our customers is enormous. And, up to now, this market is unserved,” Billie co-founder Dr. Matthias Knecht tells me.
“We’re able to place ourselves in the middle of B2B payments because B2B sellers often face long payment terms until getting paid, administrative burden to handle collections on unpaid invoices and severe economic risks from payment defaults. Meanwhile, B2B buyers often face rigid one-size-fits-all payment terms that are not tailored to the cash-cycle needs of their business. As a result, they revert to old-fashioned working capital loans to cover their liquidity needs.”
To fix this, Billie currently provides two core solutions.
The first is a checkout financing solution for B2B online stores, which embeds a financing option in the online checkout process. “It enables instant financing of the customer’s purchase directly at the online point-of-sale, and takes away all administrative hassle and default risk from the seller,” explains Knecht.
The second is SME invoice factoring, which the Billie co-founder describes as a fully automated platform that handles all outgoing invoices of SMEs.
“Small and medium-sized businesses can handle all their outgoing invoices through our platform, get instant financing for each invoice (i.e. they do not need to wait 90 days to get paid by their customers), and also outsource the collections process as well as coverage of default risk to Billie,” he says. “It’s an exciting, highly automated ‘piece of mind’ product that let’s SMEs focus on what they do best and have Billie handle the operational burden of invoice management and default coverage.”
With today’s injection of capital, Knecht says the startup plans to offer new solutions that are specifically targeted at the buyer side of B2B transactions by handling all processes around payables. This could include letting B2B buyers flexibly choose payment terms and reducing the bookkeeping hassle by acting as a single creditor.
“We will furthermore start rolling out our solutions across Europe at some point, as the need to turn B2B transactions into a frictionless experience exists across countries,” he adds.
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